Henrik Vibskov, Acne Studios & Co. – the Highlights from Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Henrik Vibskov, Acne Studios

What does the month of January mean to you? The freezing cold, frustration and an empty bank account? It seems as if the month of January doesn’t have all that much to offer. But it actually does: Men’s fashion week. The Flow House was in Paris and got to witness the exceptional creations that will not only be worn in Paris next winter, but all over the fashion world.

 

Paris fashion week started with the Swiss designer Julian Zigerli’s presentation of his newest collection “Me, my cat and I”. For those who don’t know him yet, this name is one to remember. And for those who have already heard of him, know very well that his presentations aren’t presented in the usual catwalk fashion (thinking back to his skateboard show in June). Zigerli already surprised us all this season when choosing the location: a Parisian apartment in which beer and carrots (yes carrots) were served. The models were free like birds, chilled around on beds, drove around inside on bikes – doing whatever they felt like. This way, they showed the interesting pieces from the new collection, which were very true to Zigerli’s signature style. The collection connects seduction, wickedness and madness with elements that we are all longing for – elements that remind us of home. And let me tell you, the successful presentation was one hell of a party!

 

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© Julian Zigerli
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© Julian Zigerli
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The location that was chosen for Acne Studios was quite surprising: a college. The runway was in an auditorium and while the models walked across the stage, a so-called “Acne-Professor” held a lecture on fashion history and the influence of Social Media. The colors presented in the newest collection have remained dark tones and natural colors. The well-combined single pieces all have strong character and are often paired with long (trench) coats, highlighting the asymmetrical front openings. Acne Studios is well known for details that give looks that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’. So the Moroccan inspired caftans attract attention by blurring the lines of the outfits. The wool sweaters are also a main focus in the new collection and fill us with excitement for the fall season that is yet to come.

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© Acne Studios
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© Acne Studios
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Over the past few years Coach has achieved what many fashion journalists can only dream of: to take over the European market. While this successful brand has become a huge part of the American fashion world, it took years for this Coach-Hype to make its way to Europe. With “Rexy”, the Dino-figurehead, they have created the mascot of the year. The new collection embodies the American Dream, with classic pieces such as leather jackets. The sweaters have interesting designs, like dogs or ice cream cones but especially the dinosaur “Rexy” catches one’s eye. The time has finally come to wear one’s favorite childhood dinosaur! Coach’s DNA is unique and it is time for the hype to reach Europe’s metropolis.

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© Coach
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© Coach
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I was more than happy to have been invited back to Henrik Vibskov this season. The Danish designer promises creative explosions that allow one to dive into a different world. His newest collection seems to bear many 60s inspired looks, though it is difficult to categorize the many fabrics Vibskov uses, into one era alone. In his show, the designer is trying to call attention to a world that goes from balance to imbalance. As did the models’ performance, which was yet again very gender-neutral this season.

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© Henrik Vibskov
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© Henrik Vibskov
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The Chinese designer Sean Suen surprised everyone this season. Well no, his show at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris was nothing unusual. No one was spitting fire, the models weren’t street models like in Vetements and there were also no hidden political statements. Nevertheless, the designer was able to fascinate me. Clear lines, dark tones and elegance that belong on the streets. Sean Suen creates classic fashion that cannot only be worn to an opera ball but that actually makes the young man of today. Let the pictures speak for themselves – I am ecstatic!

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© Sean Suen
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© Sean Suen
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The fashion presentations at men’s fashion week in Paris were breathtaking and I am counting the days until June to discover new creations. À bientôt, Paris. Karim